The Restoration of ORCA by David Clement

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Aksel and David Clement of Aalborg, Denmark, are restoring their 1975 Mistral.   David has sent me photographs and descriptions of their project, and has graciously allowed me to post them here.

Click on each thumbnail for a full image.


Posted 03/07/01

motor0002Clement.jpg (40030 bytes) One of the photos of the enginebay and the org. Volvo Penta....  Yes it was allmost as bad as it looks 


Posted 8/30/00 

         

 


1) Anchorwell, just a before and (almost) after.

2) Bow, well a few closeups so you get a picture of the details. Its all made of SS. The small teakdeck is still to come.  It ready but not bolted on yet.

4) Engine room. These are "in the middle" pictures. Unfortunately are the "before" pictures in Århus, but I´m going there Friday, so you´ll have a copy next Monday.... (they are scarrrrry)  You can see how much space the tank takes. and how we have used the space for a water heater + pressure system.

 

5) Bulkhead project.  Well, the 4 big bolts are SS 10 mm.  The smaller 12 bolts are SS 8 mm  The "plate" that are atattched to the bulkhead is SS 50 x 370 x 3 mm, polished in port side. Not in starboard side, since they are hidden in the locker. Deck plate is made by SS 60 x 40 x 4 mm.  The light wood is actually old maghony, but it has not been given any oil, so there fore it looks rather pink. It is glued to the bulkhead with 3M marineselant 6000. This is no doubt the best on the market, but it costs (!!!!), and is about 2 weeks to dry ! 

There is a picture from the starbord side of the salon, so you can see how much there actually can bee seen after the job. (I dont think you notice it that much)

Price, time and value. Well, we had to buy 5 meter of SS 50mm x 3mm (30 US $) + 16 SS bolts and nuts (30 US $), the rest we had.   So if you can lend the 3M glue, the job can easy be done for under 100 $ and it will take one evening to make the plates, bend them in a large vice, drill holes - and of course polish. (this takes a little time).  Remember to have a piece of mahogany wood. Installation takes about half a day.

First drill the 4 holes in the deck, use a sink planner to make a the lowering for the plates in deck. Then Measure where the bulkhead plates will be placed.  Make the 4 mahogany lists (you use their thickness to corregate from evt. errors)  The lists we used were about 11 -13 mm thick and 60 mm wide. Drill the 3 holes, give the mahogny some glue, tightend the lot. Remember to joint the deckplate before screwing it tight to the bulkhead.  (An ordinary joint as Abrocol 1000 is ok)  And thats it.

About strength. I cant say much. The hull and deck is very solid to walk on. But I don´t know if the new strength applied to the mast section will cause an other place to weaken. But - honest - I don´t think so. As long time as the rest of the hull is in good condition, that is the other bulkheads are attached to the hull. The extra strengh here will only lighten the total tension of the hull.

6) boat picture. Well. this is just so you can see 2 new features. The all ready seen bowspirit, and then the new instrument box on the deckhouse roof. The latter is made so it has the same measurement as the liferaft (normally placed in front, but not on the photo)  We have tried to make a design that is not too radical with the org. shape of the boat.

 

Well thats it. Please come with some comments.

David Clement - krogen@krogen.dk