Cyber Boatyard

I've decided to change the purpose of this page a bit in the interest of reducing the amount of work it takes to maintain this site.

Please send your correspondence to me, davegibson at fultoncomputer.com (replace the " at " with a "@"). I'll post the questions and answers for all to review. Please reference the item # in your correspondence.

#28. Posted 03/11/2005- Do It Yourself level indicator/alarm for your engine cooling curcuit

Jan Huisman has designed an engine cooling level indicator for your engine. Click for either an MS Word version or a web page.

Jan Huisman has designed a very interesting rudder position indicator for those of us with wheel steering. Click for either an MS Word version or a web page.

Martin Tanco owns a 1974 Mistral, and he and I have been exchanging email messages regarding various questions about our Mistrals, as I hope many of you do with other owners of your model HR. Martin has discovered a very serious rot problem with his mast compression post, and he will be spending considerable time, effort, and money to correct it. I asked Martin if he would send us a few photos of the work, and he has kindly responded by sending me some "before" pictures, which I am sharing here with you all. Thank you, Martin, and we look forward to the "after" photographs. - Dave Gibson, webmaster.

I met up with a highly recommended boatbuilder/yacht designer here and he has confirmed our findings. The compression post which sits on the bilge has basically softened the wood resulting on the mast starting to push on the roof. His recommendations are as follows:

1). Install compression post base made of Divinycell Foam, Laminaton of hardwood & 316 1/4" S.S. plate drilled and tap in place.
2). Install Ring frame along hull made of Divinycell foam H-80 laminate with 4 x A-130 on Hat Tab with 3 x Bi-ax knitted fiber 45 x 45 each side.
3). Install ring frame along deck. Lamination of Foam with 5xA-130 unidirectional on Hat, Tab with 3x biax knitted fiber 45 deg. X 45deg.
4). Compression post, Marine grade Aluminum 3 1/2I" sch.80 with web on the inside, mig weld with upper base place with room for tensioner on upper column of post.
5). Reconstruction of bulkhead.

The procedure will be as follows:
1). Demast boat
2). dry boat for 3 days.
3). dismantle main bulkhead
4). grinding the surface hull/deck.
5). make pattern & jig for ring frame.
6). prepare compression base ring frame and laminate in place.
i7) .nstall compression post.
8). reconstruction of interior
9). step up the mast
The work is expected to take 60 days under normal weather conditions.

This is a lot of work. Given that this is not the first time the bulkhead has separated for the mistral and that the boat has been around for a few years, it looks like a good idea to install the ring frames. I will try to get more details of the work.

I would welcome any comments you may have on the proposed work.

The ring frame being recommended by our boatyard involves building a support between the hull/deck and the bulkhead. The designer claims that this is now required for all boats to get ABS or Lloyd's certificate.

This will supposedly strengthen the boat against the compression force of the mast and the pulling actions of the shrouds which supposedly stresses out the bulkhead resulting in the damage you see.

I am definitely looking for a second opinion as the estimated cost is about 20% of what I paid for Yasdip.

I think the main problem is in the bulkheads and their attachment to the deck - or shall we say missing attachment to the deck. Since there is no attachment to the deck, the deck will under hard tension move upwards
and pressing the sides of the doghouse indwards, thus creating a new angle indside the roof. Anyway this can bee seen if you loosen one of the teakdeck planks, since they will all have moved inwards, ergo will the screws no longer bee straight down but tilted - inward. The cheap solution is therefore to bolt the bulkhead to the deck. (after demasting the boat, and let it regain its original shape). Then simply make sure that the bulkheads are secured to hull and deck.
I think it is a better start, than the expensive approach. - Regards, David

I have purchased 'Ellos' a 1987 HR 42 hull #150. The boat is in rather poor
condition and needs extensive repairs and replacements. Almost all problems
are related to corrosion due to the hot humid tropical environment of the
Carribean. In most areas corrosion is from stainless steel fasters used in
contact with alluminum fittings. Below is a list of the major needs. I would
welcome any comments or suggestions from other HR owners. The boat is in
Chagramus Trinidad.

Engine Repower
Currently installed is Volvo MD31A, it runs but has huge hours, leaks oil
like a sieve and has not been cared for. I think it would add value to the
boat to repower. Does anyone have experience repowering from this engine and
can make a reccomendation for a replacement engine? What did you have to do
in regards to mounts and shaft alignment?

Sails
Rigging is Ketch with Selden in-mast self furling. Require all new sails:
Main, Genoa & Mizzen. Can anyone recomend a suplier they've had good
experience with or do you suggest they be purchased directly from HR?

Portlights
All port light dogs have badly corroded. What model of portlight was used on
this boat? Can the dogs be replaced or must I replace the entire portlight?

Hatches
Hatches leak. Do you know what model of hatches were used on this boat? Can
I obtain new gaskets?

Dodger & Windscreen
The Windscreen was previously removed then re-installed without proper
insulation of the stainless steel screws. The lower aluminum extrusions have
badly corroded and require replacement. Anyone else have this problem?

There's lots of other things to be done. I intend to do much of the work
myself, it would be great to establish a dialog with some experienced
owners. Thank you, Ross S. West rossswest@hotmail.com (please note middle
initial 'S' in email address)

Thanks. Barry Barnwell, Dutch Courage

Reply posted 2/19/2005

My VDO depth indicator (the type with the LCD read-out instrument and the
electronics in separate units) was very unreliable and difficult to read. So
when it stopped completely and could not be repaired by VDO (parts out of
stock) I replaced it by a VDO Logic Depth instrument of the type with an
analog display for room under the keel and digital for water depth. The
original depth sounder transmitter in the hull could still be used. This
instrument fitted in the hole where the SL display used to be, so I was left
with the extra rectangular hole for the old SL electronics unit. I used that
space to install an engine oil pressure indicator, a very useful instrument
to supplement the low oil pressure alarm.
Oops! I just found in the VDO catalogue that the Logic Depth instrument is
not available anymore.

Jan Huisman (HR352#375)

I'm in the process of buying a 10 year old HR312. The survey has pointed out
a slight depression in the coach roof forward of the mast step on the
starboard side. The heads door frame, forward of the mast, starboard side,
has separated from the heads hatch frame and there is slight gel coat
cracking by the wiring pipe next to the mast.

Has anyone come across anything similar in this or any other HR model of
this age and if so was it a major or minor problem?

Elaine Walker

On my Misil I the mast was in in bad shape. I wasn�t sure what to do
about it. I talked to a man owning a P 28 who told me his mast had split like a
banana in light winds one day. The cause of this failure was that the
glue had lost its properties after many years. His mast had been in good
condition.

So I thought that maybe my mast might come apart. And it did.
In 20 minutes I had the mast back to its kit form. Even the parts of the
mast that looked in god shape came apart easily splitting in the seams
with no damage to the wood. The glue just had lost its gluing
capability.

Those of you who have an original mast that has not been reglued at some
point perhaps should check. The mast may look perfect but a may perhaps split up under stress.

Regards, Frederick Somerville

I am looking to sand back the teak decks on an HR38. Any advice please.
Will I need to re-fit all hatches etc?
Whats the basic technique?
Thanks - HALLIBRF@aol.com

Reply posted 5/20/02- I'm in the middle of a teak deck project myself, on my old Mistral. I've removed some of the teak from the cockpit and it is very thin. I wouldn't recommend sanding your teak because you may expose some of the screw heads. You will also lose some of the non-skid properties of the teak. A really great site for anyone interested in maintaining their teak decks is at http://www.yandina.com/TeakDeck.htm . Dave Gibson, Mistral 33.

I've recently finished renovating the decks on my 352. I think the previous owner had scrubbed them a lot, resulting in the teak being worn away, with the rubber caulking left standing proud. First job was to cut off the surplus rubber, using a small craft knife. There's yards and yards of it, so patience is needed! Next, I used a small belt sander with medium grit belts, used very gently. Minimum pressure, aligned roughly with the grain of the wood, and keep it moving around so as to avoid excessive removal of wood. Apply masking tape around the bottom of the sides of the coachroof, to protect the fibreglass. Also unscrew any fittings you can, such as windlass switches, vents, hinges, chainplate trims, etc. When sanding, the secret seems to be to strike a happy compromise between having the deck look reasonable whilst not removing too much teak. It's very likely that some sections of caulking will be lifted by the sander - I just cut them off at an angle as soon as they got to a point where they seemed to be adhered to the teak. The sander I used had a dust bag attached, but some sanders can be connected to a vacuum cleaner. It's best to wear a mask, as teak dust is harmful to your lungs. Then, use a small detail sander (with little triangular sanding sheets) to tidy up edges and around fittings. Then, recaulk the places where the original caulking was removed (use masking tape each side of the groove). Next thing I did was to wet-sand the deck using a foam-rubber hand-held sanding block, to remove any fine swirl marks. Finally, I've treated the deck with an anti-algae, anti-fungus solution. HR recommend Boracol, but there are similar products available in many hardware stores. It was a long job, and one which I'd put off for a couple of years, but in the end it looks good and I'm pleased with it. Oh, and knee pads would be a good investment.

I purchased my Monsun 31 a year ago and I have a few questions for Monsun owners. Numerous people (including surveyors past and present) have expressed their opinions on what engine I have in my 1974 Monsun. They all disagree and no ones opinion matches mine. I think I have an MD2, but I am curious as to what the most common original equipment was. Also, since old volvo parts are difficult and expensive to come
by, does anyone have any ideas about repowering, if I eventually go that route? The volvo runs like a champ at the moment. I'm having a difficult time working out a way to sound my fuel tank. It is molded into the keel and accessed by a curved pipe that opens in the engine compartment. A folding ruler can't make the bend, but a section
of black rubber hose does'nt hit the bottom of the tank, but rides along the bottom. Any good ideas or systems? I would like to install a windvane but my Monsun has hydraulic wheel steering. I'm interested if anyone else has this system and what
they've done. I'm thinking about installing a bypass in the hydraulic lines and shipping a shortened tiller to hook to a windvane. Any comments would be welcome,

Barent Rice
1974 Monsun 31 #110

Reply posted 4/21/02
I have Monsun hull number 13, and have the Volvo MD2B, 25 HP, undoubtedly same as yours. I'm sure this is the original. Same as you, my motor is rumbling along and I do not have plans to replace it as long as it is still rumbling. Not sure about the best fit to repower either, so it will be interesting to hear what otther folks have done when that dreaded day arrived. To get to the bottom of my tank I tape some plastic hose to a 1/4 inch dowel and this seems to sit on the bottom for pumping grunge from the tank bottom. I use the same dowel to check the fuel remaining as i have no gauge. I bought the boat with a Monitor already installed. I have a tiller and it works very well. Good luck. Hal Smith (macsmith@homernet.net.)

Reply posted 5/14/02-
I have re-engined my Monsun no 344 with a 27 hp Yanmar. Happy with this, but I would wait until the MD 2 gave up the ghost - they are very reliable. I have the same tank as you - a molded in thing underneath the engine. Not very happy about this, as it is impossible to get at. So far it works ok, so post-pone the inevitable angle grider job. For measuring diesel I have installed a "Tank Tender" device. It seems the only work-up that will work other than a dipstick. All it takes is a small hole in the brass filler-cap behind the engine. They advertise in Criusing World among others, and most large chandlers will carry it. You will need the "extra - long" tube to reach the bottom of the tank. Good luck!- Hans Valderhaug, S/Y Anne Troms�, Norway

Hi everyone,
I have a new job (see below) and just moved my boat to Miami from Key Largo;
no sooner was I here than a little luff of bad luck came around, and with
the coincidence of my rule bilge pump failure and a quickened prop drip,
water covered up the old 75HP, MD 21A from 1975, and the old French girl
took a powder. Seized to the point of breaking Craftsman ratchet extensions
and immovable with a four foot pipe over the ratchet handle. 4000 hours
were indicated, and no idea if she has been rebuilt before. Volvo dealers
here say parts are impossible to find, might have to be machined, and one of
them may have an old service manual which could be copied and sent for a
price. Forget it, is basically what they are saying: repower.

First question: Is it as bad as all that? Anyone know from MD 21A? Should
I undertake the rebuild? A friend/neighbor is rebuilding his Yanmar 140 and
has offered to see me through the process. He scoffs at the Volvo dealers'
comments, and says we'll lift her up into the cockpit and breath new life
into her.

Second question: If the dealers carry the day, I'm thinking about a much
smaller HP engine; say a 30HP or even smaller from Volvo, Westerbeke, or
Yanmar. I was even toying with a 10HP option, thinking what, I only use it
for ins and outs and a little amping up once in a while. It's not like I'm
clawing off an Oregon lee shore. Aside from conventional wisdom, which
varies, but I got one reference which says 3 HP per ton of displacement, I
am tempted to go much smaller. Any opinions?

Third question: If I repower, with either Volvo or Westerbeke, whether
large or small on the HP, will I encounter serious problems with the engine
bed, mounts and propeller shaft issues?

I have a 74 Rasmus that was repowered in 1993. The exact configuration is:

Engine - Volvo 2003 - 28 hp - FW cooling (about 3 hp per ton)
Transmission - PRM Delta hydraulic 3.0::1 reduction
Aquadrive CV joint with thrust bearing
Fixed prop 3 blade 16x16, A/R about 0.35

The result is in my mind about perfect for the boat. It is smooth and
there is lots of power.

I wouldn't go with a smaller engine than the 2003. And much bigger would be a waste of fuel. The key to the success of my installation is that there is a good match between the engine, transmission reduction ratio and prop size. How good? I can motor at 7 kt at 2500 rpm against a 20 kt headwind and a 2' chop. I can stop the boat dead in the water in just under 3 boat lengths from a speed of 7 kt.

Because the Rasmus has a reputation of being difficult to maneuver in close quarters, it is nice to have the big prop!

I've been a seafarer most of my working life and am firmly of the opinion that when the sails are down, I don't want an underpowered motorboat.

You should have no problem with the engine bed, etc. My old engine was a MD21. If you like, I can send you a photo of my installation.

Good Luck

Dave DeWolfe
Rasmus # 330

I'm replacing my Monsun 31 (#13) 3 blade
prop 15 inch, 12 pitch and wonder if other Monsun owners have a similar
prop, or have other recommendations for size and pitch. Also, does anyone
have any experience with the newer props, specifically Campbell Sailor or
Michigan Sailor? My motor is still 25 hp Volvo MD2. Thanks.

I own a Mistral 33 so cant help Hal in regards to prop size and pitch
for his Monsun. However I did replace the old two bladed prop with a three bladed
Campbell Sailor prop on Merry Dance two years ago. My overall impression is positive, my fairly new Yanmar 20 is working very efficiently and my boat speed is increased on a knots per revs ratio. I don't notice any increase in drag but my reverse thrust did not improve as much as hoped. Several friends have changed to Campbell Sailors in the last three or four years and highly recommend them.

I have been the owner of "Lady Brett" for about 15 years. During that time I have tackled the full range of usual repairs. I have been largely unsuccessful in stopping leaks around the ports. I have replaced them all (some twice) and did a careful job of cleaning old bedding compound off the frames and the openings. If any screw holes were not solid I inserted bungs to give a fresh "bite". I have been using Boat Life polysulfide bedding compound. Any thoughts/ experiences would be appreciated

1) There was a question out last winter about wind vane self steering for the Monsun. We pondered for quite a while, the final choice being between the servo-pendulum gears Monitor (too expensive and too much unsightly pipework for the relatively small Monsu), the Aries and the Windpilot. I have previous 10 years experience with the Aries. We used to have problems with chafing lines, so we ended up with the Windpilot. We have this sunmmer sailed to Bear Island and Spitsbergen. We are very happy with the Windpilot under all the encountered conditions, and the installation is straight-forward. It even looks good! I will try to enclose a photograph of the Windpilot steering us across Troms�flaket during a gale on the way home.

2. Our plastic water tank ruptured during the summer. I am afraid the rupture is mostly my own fault. The water pressure in the hose on the pier in Longyearbyen is quite high, and the hose diameter such that it occluded the filler-hose. A kink in the venting-tube was enough for the pressure to bulid up sufficient to crack the tank just where the transverse bulkhead at the front end of the drawers is. HR parts & accessories have been most helpful, but the production of these watertanks was sub-contracted. I can probably get a reasonably equivalent tank. Problem is the watertank is bigger than the door, ie it has been put in place before the bulhead. I do not want a flexible tank. Understand I will have to give up on som tank volume, but before I start hacking away - anybody else out there had a similar problem??

What is the recommended treatment to maintain the interior wood in my Rasmus?

Thanks, Capt. Dave DeWolfe

I have been using Rivale brand, "Interior Rubbed Effect Varnish" on the interior of my Mistral. It matches the factory varnish perfectly in hue and luster. Even when applying this finish over newly fabricated interior parts i am unable to tell the difference from new to old

Our Rasmus has a low-luster finish with virtually no build-up. It is in
great condition and appears completely original in that I cannot find any
sign of application of additional finishes by looking in joint and seam
areas. I would associate it with the tung-oil finishes common in Swedish
furniture in that time. When I think about it, the lack of build-up is
really remarkable. I've done some tung-oil refinishing and although
technically a varnish it seems to somehow go away over time. Nor does it
seem to separate from the grain the way spar varnish does. I'd use tung
oil- perhaps Formby's.

My Mistral is varnished mahogany, so I just varnish mine. Well, actually, my wife just varnishes mine. How is your Rasmus finished now?

We have delivered our Mistress to Astoria, Oregon down the Mighty Columbia River! Aside from the throttle cable rattling loose from the engine, and docking thus in 30 knot winds, it was a pleasant ride. The boat handles rough waters beautifully, and sails under working jib very well upwind.

Speaking of sails, I still am in the dark regarding the proper measurements for the main and foretriangle. Looking at the set of the sails that have been on this boat for a long time, they do not appear to really fit the mast and boom, or the jib car tracks.

Could you post an inquiry regarding the proper I, J, P, and E measurements for a Mistress? Perhaps one of the measurers out there has a reference book that would list them. This being a Half-tonner, I'm sure the ratings people would have kept close track of such things. Thank you.

Thor Sorenson

Dear Thor,

According to the Swedish LYS (former "Liding� Yard Stick"), Mistress has the
following measurements:
P 9.70 m
E 2.70 m
J 3.50 m (also max spinnaker boom length)
T 11.40 m (max leading edge of the biggets genua)
LP 5.25 m
and for the spinnaker
SMW 6.30 m
SL 11.14 m (max leading edge)

David Clement, Mistral

Reply posted 09/04/01- Dave Gibson

A previous owner of my Mistral was also interested in extending his boom and increasing his mainsail area, and although he never did it, he gave me the marine architect's report. If I can find it, I'll copy it and email it too you.

I don't think it would be a good idea to increase the mainsail on the Mistral because the boat already has a bit of weather helm. I even moved the mast all the way forward on it's adjustable mast step, and although the helm improved a bit, it is still there. You might consider larger headsails. Until we changed to roller furling, we used our 170% genoa quite a bit.

We don't have in-boom furling, but we use lazy jacks which work well.

I plan to install a holding tank on my Rasmus this winter. Before I start,
I would really appreciate hearing of the experience of others who have done
it already. Should I use a rigid tank or a bladder? And where is the best
place to put it?

Any and all comments are welcome.

Many thanks,
Capt. Dave DeWolfe- Rasmus # 330

Discovery Sailing Charters
dave@DiscoverySailing.com
http://www.DiscoverySailing.com

My 1972 Rasmus appears to have been built with a bladder-type holding tank + macerator, since the macerator-button is labeled in Swedish and is of a piece with the rest of the boat's original fittings. I imagine that export models destined for the U.S. were equipped this way to conform with Coast Guard regulations (now outdated, of course, though I still use the macerator system, and keep my fingers crossed...) Anyway, the holding tank is placed horizontally, forward of the toilet, in an open-fronted section of the main locker....does that make sense? It looks to me like the only place that a holding tank would fit, but since mine is the only Rasmus in which I've had to poke around inside the head, I don't know what would be there in place of the holding tank... just more mahogany panelling, I imagine.

Our boat� Gulliver, is a Hallberg -Rassy 41 ketch made in 1977 (Hull number 47). We are sailing our boat around the world and are presently in French Polynesia. The chainplate that holds the bobstay, which extends from the bowsprit to bow at the waterline, is broken and needs to be replaced. It has been disinigrated due to electrolosis. We have since discoverd the cause of the electrolosis and fixed it. We would like to have a new one made locally. Could you please forward to us via email the design sketch and specifications? We believe having this part made locally is our best option unless you have any other recommendations.

Our visa here in French Polynesia is expiring very soon. Your prompt attention to our misfortune would be greatly appreciated

I need a Bimini which is being made (as well as a cover for her bright work).
You know the mainsheet is mid cockpit and I removed the traveler some years
ago and now use only a fiddle block system attached to the sole of the
cockpit. Well, that's a no go with the bimini so I am putting a traveler mid
boom, right in front of the combing. I bought a 6:1 purchase system (Harken)
from the riggers here and it will work (Dominic has the same but a 3:1) but
it looks UGLY. HOPE is pristine and her decks and cabin tops are all
white...the Harken system is huge black risers etc. I just cannot bear the
way she looks so I am returning it. I went to a woodshop and they are making
me a frame of mahogany...two large blocks at either side of the companionway
cover with a 3" span running between. I am then going to thru bolt the track
through the span, blocks, cabin top and secure it with two plywood squares on
the inside, two on each side, with three to four bolts. That will work
mechanically. What I need is an old traveler system, with a chrome/aluminum
track (the most important) and old blocks, so that I can maintain her "look".
I'm such a dope....I threw away her old traveler when I had her redone. Now
that's a no-no. Can anyone help me find one?

I sailed the boot from Breskens Holland to my town Genk in Belgium for a big maintenace.
He is in a hall and we are changing all the electricity, new navigation equipment, resealing the deck, but before we can do it, we have to break up the bb side at the hight of the charttable (electricitybox) because of an accident the boat had had before I bought it, but noboddy has told us. When we are sailing and there is water comming over de bb side, there is always water inside the boot under the chart table. So we have to find the fault.

Wat I am looking for is next question :

In the after cabin, the suide, which is glued against the polyester and special in the roundings, has loosed. Do you know how we kan fix it again properly and do you know if ther is still the same suide available?

I have bought a HR 35 ( in New Zealand ) and the rubber seal between the hard dodger and the cabin is broken.It looks like a special section and I wonder it is still avalible. Please contact me as soon as possible. frisu@ihug.co.nz

As predicted, I am now the owner of a 26 year old HR. A friend and I and our wives made the six hour trip around to my home in Key Largo (bayside) from the broker at Key Largo (oceanside), at about the same mile marker, with only one grounding, thirty feet off my canal entrance. (We entertained the neighbors for awhile and got off with a line ashore from the masthead). The boat is in decent shape, with new rigging and mainsail, apparent 400 hours on the Volvo 75hp, which I guess is not original, although neither is it new. The previous owner became unable to complete his dream of sailing the boat from Florida to Hawaii, which may be just as well, as the boat is somewhat short of being prepared for that kind of journey.

Among the odd things aboard at the time I first inspected the boat were swollen floorboards. When I first went aboard with the broker, the water was ankle deep. It proved to be fresh water, and an open hatch during the heavy rains a month before explained it, along with a short which prevented the bilge pump from working. The boards, which I'm sure are original, (solid teak, with HR type workmanship) swelled up in the main saloon along the galley so they don't fit down flush. The top hardwood guy in the Keys (Rex, at Woodshop 102) said it is no surprise, and that they should come back down in time. Has anyone else had this problem with the cabin sole? Another small matter was the access to the impeller cover, which is behind a bulkhead, and is screaming for a new access panel; anyone?

Finally it looks as though the bottom is "paint-rich" and may have to be taken down to gelcoat. I am wondering about saturation of the hull, and although no osmosis has been detected, (the bottom was inspected in the water, both by myself and by a diver for the insurance company) I would be interested in anyone's experience with water retention of the hull below the waterline, and osmosis/blistering problems in general for boats of this vintage.

I mentioned before that I am confused about my hull number, which indicates my boat is from 1975, and the sequence number, which would suggest the boat is from 1974. In two places, both in the HRURA3330275 number and on a bronze plaque behind the binnacle, the number 333 appears; numbers before and behind this number in sequence of Rasmuses registered are from 1974, and
yet mine clearly appears to have been built in 1975; anyone?

Anyway I am grateful to anyone who has information on these matters of HR construction and curiosity, and look forward to hearing from you. Also I am pleased to be part of the group, and look forward to comparing notes. URSA will be docked where she is now, behind my home in Key Largo, while I get her in shape over the next year or so. First step is to haul her up at Manatee Bay and change those gate valves for ball valve seacocks and take care of the bottom.

Nicholas, welcome to the group. Martha and I own Rasmus 356. It is registered as a '75 but I am also confused by the numbering.

My boat has mahogany floorboards (as is the rest of the jointerwork), also solid and apparently original. My only concern re yours going back down is, should you control the rate at which they dry so as to avoid warping. I would be inclined to somehow block them flat and gradually dry them out.

Concerning the bottom, I contacted everyone I could to discuss this issue. The Swedish owner's group has no blistering or crazing. My boat has extensive hull (but not deck) crazing both above and below the waterline and this apears to be common in boats you'll find in the US. Some say crazing
may result from a gelcoat that was heavier than needed. There may be a water temperature factor, or perhaps a relationship to the extent a boat is exposed to direct sun. The one boat I found who had extensive crazing, and it was deck crazing, was a Florida boat.

Blistering is said to be the result of water absorption into the layers of the hull resulting from an insufficient wet-out of the fiberglass during layup. It appears also to be particularly noticeable in boats in the late 70's and 80's when resin costs were very high and people were doing a lot of experimentation. My boat has none and this appears to be typical. The only person I found with blisters was the above Florida boat and he had 5 small ones.

What I concluded was that I could spend a lot of money getting the hull to look great. The best refinishers will guarantee their work for as long as 10 years, and the fee could be as high as $15,000 for the entire hull. On the other hand, if I left it as it is, I might find it looking and performing just like it is 10 years from now. There are also those who feel that they would prefer to see the boat in as original a state as possible. That helped me make my decision. I had the boat hauled, the bottom scraped and painted, and put her back in. The only one who might be unhappy about this is my insurance company but I think I have the data to back up my position. After a heavy duty scrubbing and waxing, my boat looks great. The decks look virtually new and the topside crazing can't be seen until you get within 3 feet or so, and then when you know what you're looking for. I can live with that.

Enjoy, and post your progress as you go.

John

We have just re engined and replaced the Volvo MD 21B with a Beta Marine (Kubota based engine,built in UK,I think the US equivalent is the Westerbeke). I have also fitted a 3 blade feathering prop.If anyone is considering re-engining a 352 I would be glad to let them know the problems encountered.(very few!) - randr@iol.ie

I plan to upgrade the charging system on my Rasmus. Present engine is a Volvo 2003 non-turbo, alternator is a Valeo 50amp. Installing a 94 amp alternator and the Heart InCharge multi step regulator.

Can any one supply me with a wiring diagram to help me map the maze behind the panel on the stbd side? Has anyone upgraded a Rasmus in a similar fashion?

Reply posted 01/15/01- Peter Brown
Dave, it sounds like you’re planning to replace the 50amp alternator with the 94amp unit. Had you thought instead of adding the 94amp as a second alternator? This would give you two valuable advantages. 1) You gain reliability because you can get rid of the blocking diodes (or a combiner), by dedicating the 94amp alternator to the domestic bank, and the 50amp unit to the engine starting battery. 2) You gain a pre-installed emergency system in the event of one alternator failing - a big benefit bearing in mind you’re likely to have customers on board!

I have an HR352 with a Volvo 2003, and I added a second alternator a couple of years ago. Volvo Penta sells a second alternator kit for the 2003. It costs (surprise, surprise) a small fortune, but I persuaded my local Volvo Penta dealer to just sell me the bracket and to credit the cost of the 50amp alternator which is part of the kit. However, the mounting bracket system is exceptionally well engineered, and there’s simply no way you could make a one-off easily for the same money. So, if you decide to add an alternator, I’d recommend you buy their kit. Incidentally, it hangs on the port side of the engine, so balancing the belt loads on the crankshaft. And it will only take a small-case alternator - I have a 90amp Leece-Neville.

My original 50amp alternator only charges the engine starting battery. It doesn’t need a smart regulator to do this. My second alternator only charges the domestic batteries, and it does have a smart regulator to maximise the charging efficiency.

If you haven’t already got one, I’d recommend installing a monitor such as the Heart Link 10. This will show you exactly what the charging voltage is and exactly how much current you’re pumping into your batteries (and also allow you to count amp-hours in and out). This little device will help you to understand just what’s happening with your batteries and, after a smart regulator, is probably the most useful piece of electrical kit you can install.

Last winter we had some helpful advice from users of the cl�assic HR homepages re bowroller for our Monsun no 344 "Anna". I had great qualms about grinding away part of the bulwarks to install a standard roller, and ended up making a pattern in plywood & fibreglass and taking it to a local welder with a good reputation for his work in stainless steel. During the summer we have sailed the boat up the Norwegian west and south coast to our new base in Troms�, well north of the arctic circle. The bowroller has worked flawless, but we are putting link plates on the roller furler to give more room for anchor work.

On my HR 38 I have found play between the rudder stock and the rudder itself. Referring to the drawing in the answer on the question of Scott Grinner, posted 01/09/99, it seems to be in the connection between bottom of the rudderstock and the top rudder fitting. According to the drawing this is a conical connection, with possibly a spline. Has anyone experience whether just tightening the nut at the bottom of the rudderstock is enough or whether I have to take the whole connection apart and possibly have to renew the upper rudderfitting to make sure that the spline fits tightly?

Does anyone have any ideas who might have the line drawings for the HR 382 and the Enderlein HR42? I want to make half models of both yachts and only have the drawings in the sales brochure .

Reply posted 11/24/00- Stellan Wingne
Try this: The museum has "all" the drawings from The Late Mr Enderlein For those interested in the older Hallberg-Rassy models, designed by the late Olle Enderlein, we are proud to recommend the recently released book, "Beautiful Yachts Sail Well", or as the Swedish title is, "Vackra b�tar seglar v�l", by Ingrid Kaijser. The book, which is written in Swedish with a
resume in English, describes in an interesting way Mr Enderlein's designs and his life as a yacht designer. Mr Enderlein designed all the models for Hallberg-Rassy from mid 60's to the mid 80's. The book is published by the Swedish Naval History Museum. The order number is ISBN 91-85268-77-1 and the book can be ordered by email entre.butik.shm@sshm.se or by telephone +46-(0)8 519 54920.

Reply posted 11/07/00- Dave Gibson, Mistral
I think I may have over tightened my rigging last year, as I kind of deflected the cabin top on the boat, and the head door wouldn't latch anymore. This year I set it much looser, to the point where my leeward shrouds are slack when beating. My hunch is that the Mistral's wooden cabin deflects more than a fiberglass sandwich cored with balsa. Since it is not as stiff, overtightening the rig causes things like bulkhead deformation, and so it would be best to leave it loose rather than too tight.

Anyone have this problem? My boat has extensive crazing, above and below the waterline. It appears as though the gelcoat shrank, exposing the underlying fiberglass. There are no blisters but the gaps below the waterline (the few I saw at haulout) might be larger. There are no blisters. The marine surveyor viewed it as an "esthetic issue" but one I might want to eventually take care of. The insurance company feels they should be taken care of. However, since the below-waterline job was estimated at $6,000, as was the above-waterline,job. If it makes any difference, this boat seems to have spent a lot of time in
Florida and North Carolina. In recent years, it's been lightly sailed

Reply posted 10/22/00- from Veronica Grinnn
I have hull # 98 and had the same problem with the decks crazing but not below the waterline. But a few years ago I found a handful of blisters and had the bottom sandblasted ( if you have this done make sure whoever does it KNOWS what they are doing) cause a heavy hand with a sandblaster can make for ALOT so sanding to get the waves out. Then I used interlux barrier coat after letting the hull dry out for four months in the fl. sun. and haven't had a blister since ( knock on wood). The deck was severely crazed and two years ago I had A-Quailty fiberglass in ft. lauderdale say they could fix it without taking all the gel coat off and they opened the worst of the cracks and filled them and painted three months later the cracks started reappearing and haven't stopped yet

The Restoration of ORCA by David Clement
Aksel and David Clement own ORCA, a 1975 Mistral #194. They're undertaking several major restorations. Click here to follow their progress and perhaps pick up a few tips.

Anyone experienced osmosis on a 352? I'm antifouling right now, and I've spotted about 5 little blisters - but I'm going to pretend they're not there and put the boat back in the water.

My Mistral has a 13" two bladed fixed prop running off a Perkins 4-108 diesel. I bought the boat in '98, and last season I found a three bladed prop buried under old anchor chain in the v-berth. My hunch is that the three blade was original equipment, and the two blade was installed by a previous owner to reduce drag.

My prop turns when sailing at speeds over 3 1/2 knots, which, if not bad for the transmission, is annoying. I was going to install a shaft lock this Spring, but when I crawled under my winter cover last weekend to check for clearance I found that it would be a very difficult installation. There's some kind of rubber hose around the shaft (it looks like a big car radiator hose) and rather than deal with that, I'm considering a feathering prop instead.

My boat will do hull speed at 2200 RPM with the fixed two blade (about 7 1/2 knots). Will the three blade give me hull speed at a lower RPM, saving me fuel and wear and tear on the engine? Have any of you replaced your fixed props with feathering props?

I'm far from an experienced expert on this matter, but I think your question is not easy to answer. In Volvo Penta's catalogue they specify propellers by diameter and pitch http://www.penta.volvo.se/parts/index.html. Same diameter and different
pitch give different results. The motor power is also of importance. Other Mistral owners should be in the best position to give you a good advice. When the diameter and the pitch are the same, I would expect a three bladed propeller to give you a higher speed than a two bladed at the same RPM.

Best regards
Jan Abrahamsen HR 312 #415

I have read the note regarding lower rudder pin wear on the message board, and have to repeat the repair I made in 1990, on my 1974 Monsun 31. Regarding the HR newsletter, what is a "tap" that they refer to?

There are two tools used in making a nut and bolt- a "tap" and a "die". A tap is male, and is used to create the threads in a nut or other female part. A die is female, and is used to create the threads on a bolt or screw.

I do know what a tap is in the usual sense. However, I am having trouble visualizing a "tap" in regards to the lower rudder pin refernced in the HR newsletter below. When I replaced the pin 10 years ago, there was only a bronze pin (1/2 inch or so in diameter by about 3-4 inches), which we replaced with a similar but less worn pin. Now ther is play again, and I wonder what HR refers to re a "tap".

Does anyone have ideas on quieting internal mast wires? My mast is Selden, vintage 1974, without conduit or internal
track.

I used to have a Pearson 26 with internal mast wires that would slap around, making an annoying noise that would especially bother us when sleeping. I resolved the problem with foam pipe insulation. It is readily available at any hardware store and is very inexpensive, and is used to insulate household water pipes. It is slit along its length, and I easily slid it along the wires from the top and bottom of the mast.

If you have internal halyards the foam may present a problem. In this case, I have heard and read of people attaching lengths of PVC pipe to the inside of the mast with either rivets or 3M 5200 adhesive and running the wires through there.

Has anyone heard of the deck-hull joint failing at the chainplates on the fiberglass P-28 or other similarly-built fiberglass Hallberg boats? A marine surveyor has recently called the stock/original "chainplate" arrangement on our 1973 P-28 (#524) "entirely inadequate" and recommended bonding conventional sheet-metal chainplates to the inside of the hull topsides. On the fiberglass P-28 the shrouds and backstay are in fact through-bolted to the deck at the deck-hull joint, not to bulkheads or the topsides themselves (see figure). The boat has sailed for 27 years and there is no sign of failure or weakness, however this
surveyor is also concerned about fatigue. I find the surveyor knowledgable and prudent and recommend him highly; however he admits he has no data on the structure in question.

Any comments?

The details: On the 1973 fiberglass-hulled P-28 there are no "chainplates" as such: rather, the shrouds attach to eyebolts which pass through the outboard edge of the deck at the deck-hull joint, then through a hardwood load-spreading stringer under the deck, and are fastened beneath the stringer with a washer and nut. The backstay is fastened similarly. Thus the rigging loads are in fact applied directly to the hull. The surveyor says the potential problem area is the 90-degree bend at the sheer, where the 1/4" (6mm) glass lay-up is folded over to form the flange to which the deck is bolted. The question is whether the 90-degree angle in the 6mm fiberglass is strong enough, particularly after 27 years. As I mentioned above, there are no signs of failure now -- just that the surveyor is uncomfortable with the design.

Walter Wheeler, 1973 P-28 # 524 Walter.Wheeler@ifjf.uib.no

Hallberg-Rassy wrote me that the chainplate arrangement on the fiberglass P-28 was common to the Hallberg boats, and to many other fiberglass boats of the period, but that Rassy-designed boats always used a different arrangement. So the arrangement on your Rasmus is likely to be original Rassy. Incedentally, the Albin Vega has the P-28-type design.

Regards,

Walter

Is there any one that has experience with how much insulation is in the icebox of an HR 352 -1980? I am in the procress of installing a new refrigeration system and want to optimize the system.

I have a Rasmus 35 1978, with a replacement engine, a peugeot diesel of similiar vintage, 105 hp if I'm correct. I have been told that it is similiar (identical) to some models of Volvos. Any information?

I have a HR41 1978 which I am undertaking a major refit on.The engine is a Volvo MD21 of 75hp. This I found to be the same engine as fitted to the Peugeot 504/505 just with volvo marinising. I have completely rebuilt the engine including new pistons liners bearings etc and have saved 1000s of pounds by using Peugeot parts,i.e. a set of liners and pistons from volvo over 1000 pounds, from Peugeot 200 pounds sterling . I have also replaced the freshwater cooling using a bowman system saving a lot of space and money over the Volvo system. If you require any further info contact me on chris@kellyhr41.freeserve.co.uk

I�m beginning to think, that we have several different rigs on the Mistral 33. (ex. Dave have special spreaders etc). I have the org. Selden, "gold"-type. Mast:

11 meters and 89 centimeters = 39�
From mast to deck: 0,5 meters = 1� 8"
All in all = 40� 8" (and not 43� as the one Mistral with a PHRF rating in New England. ).
I wonder if it is only me who have a "small" mast, or if it have anything to do with prod. nr. ???
If you know the hight of your mast please let me know.

Regarding your query on the mast. I have hull#176 and like you have the gold coloured mast... sorry, i don't have the measurements.

My Mistral has a double spreader mast with a baby stay. Since I am the fourth owner of the boat, I can't really say if this is the original mast for the boat, although the age of the winches and other hardware indicates that it is. My boat also has a baby stay, but I think this may have been added by the original owner for a trans-atlantic trip.

Anybody out there have sketches/photos of some decent anchoring arrangement without mounting a bow-sprit? I`d love a bow-roller for the rope & chain, in which I also could keep the anchor stowed. A bit awkward on the Monsun because of the deep bulwarks - I would hate any serious surgery to this...Any help appreciated!

Hans Jakob Valderhaug, '76 Monsun #344

I don�t have the Monsun, but a Mistral. We face nearly the same anchor problems, thou we have decided to make a bow-sprit, since it makes sailing with a MPS or Gennaker a lot easier.

There is a very good design in the danish "B�dnyt" nr. 4, 1999., that can be adapted to almost any boat quite easy (and if you have the right conections, quite cheap as well).

The advantage is that you don�t have to change anything, just add the bow-sprit.

Reply posted 03/15/00.
Ours came with a nice heavy duty stainless steel bow extrusion that has attachment for headstay and a nice roller that holds a Bruce anchor. So it can be done. I'll send a picture if you are interested. macsmith@xyz.net.

Hal Smith, '74 Monsun

The double anchor roller is all stainless. Somewhat out of view is a piece of flat steel which passes across under the two long "troughs" which are welded onto it. The flat piece is then neatly bent to not touch the rub rail, but comes down and is thru-bolted to the bulwarks (gunwhales). In the shadow in the photo, you can just make out one of the heads of the through
bolts just to the right of the green registration sticker.

By the way, the windlass is in a terrible location, so don't get any ideas.

braden toan, Rasmus

Heater - Thermo 2500

Would anyone know where to get a parafin fuel pump for this heater? Wallas have replaced the original pump with a solenoid type which won't fit this heater.

Lynn Stoppard-Jones, HR 29 # 176 Moya

I have a HR-312 with a Thermo 2500, but to my knowledge this piece of equipment was/(is?) supplied by Volvo. If you do not have success asking a Volvo dealer, it might be an idea to contact some service shop for those heaters. In my homewaters they often have scrapped devices which may have a component you need.

Has anyone replaced the small perspex hull ports? It appears to me that the inner timber trim ring unscrews which allows the black inner ring to be removed. What happens next? Do these bolts hold in the outer window frames? Any advice appreciated.

Ms. Kim Roberts, HR352 No 212 Samphire ( randr@iol.ie )

Remove the portlights by unscrewing all screws from inside, removing the black inner ring. For some, first remove the mahagony "shell/ring" by removing the small screws. Be carefull when removing black inner rings where they are close to the vinyl "carpet". The vinyl gets stiff after more than 5 years. Remove the portlights by using a sharp chisel. Be careful, but hammer the chisel in between the hull and the outer frame. Break the frame away from the gasket and the hull. Carefully collect all screws - mark where long and short ones belong ! (I didn't and had a puzzle when remounting). Now, remove the old LEXAN or Plexi glass from the frames - scaring easy! And - this is the worst : Remove ALL old silicone by hard work and maybe a chemical silicone remover. Carefully work with sanding paper, starting at grit number 120 up to 180/240. I found a company which annosiered (wrong spelling) the Alloy, but the small corrosion holes affected a bad result, so a local car paint garage applyed epoxy, sanded again and finally made a very nixe paint job for around 150$. The frames were as nice as new ones. A glass company made 8 rectangular plexiglass pieces, of which I rounded all corners, ready for gluing in. I first used a 10sec. glue at 4 small points at the glass to fix the glass in the repainted frames, when the 10 sec. loctite�glue held, I filled up with 3M Silicone glue (clear fexible) for boat use. The result was that the portlights can "carry" more than 100 kilos form inside. Refitting on the boat (after repainting the hull with blue paint at the stripes), was done with 3M rubber gaskets for windows, need 2 persons for that.

This may or may not be anything, but I've noticed that the bulkhead seems to have separated from the doghouse roof on my Mistral. It's apart by 1/2" or so from where it should be, as the photos below show:

Could it be I have my rigging too tight? I don't notice any other problems, other than the head door would not latch when my forward lowers were tight. It seems that the wooden doghouse moves. Have any other Mistral owners noticed this, or any other HR owners of wooden models? -Dave Gibson, Mistral #61

I was wondering if anybody knows the PHRF rating for a Rasmus? -Elizabeth Hults, Rasmus #98.

(Note for our European members- PHRF is an acronym that stands for "Performance Handicap Racing Fleet". PHRF is based on a boat's estimated speed and racing potential, and observed racing abilities. It does not take into account a skipper or crew's abilities. There are formulae for both time on distance and time on time corrections. I also asked, on our "ship's log", if anyone could tell us what handicapping system used in Europe.)

Reply posted 09/06/99.

Well, in Sweden, Denmark and Norway the "LYS-system" is popular. LYS refers to "Lidingoe Yard Stick" after the place in Sweden where they started to use the system. The system is based on results in competitions (regattas) that is given some statistical treatment. Each type of boat has its "LYS-number". To compare the result when different boats compete, you simply take the time used in seconds an multiply with the LYS-number. Lowest result wins. The faster the boat, the higher the LYS-number.

The LYS-number refers to a boat using spinnaker and max size genua. If you are using max size genua as your largest fore-sail (not using spinnaker), the LYS-number is reduced with 0,03. Minimum genua as largest fore-sail gives a LYS-number reduction of 0,04.

The LYS-system is revised each year, but now there are seldom changes for the older boats.

Here are the LYS-numbers I have found for Rassy-boats:

P28: 0,99
Misil I: 0,96
Misil II: 0,98
Mistral: 1,04
Monsun 31: 1,03
Rasmus 35 1,03
HR 26: 1,02
HR 29: 1,04
HR 312: 1,05
HR 352 high mast: 1,10
HR 352 low mast: 1,08
HR 34: 1,18
HR 36: 1,15

To your question about buttons for cuising music, my comment is: "Well, so far we know Dave's taste of music!"

(Note- I also asked on our "ship's log" if anyone used the "cruising music" buttons I used to have on our web site)

- Jan Abrahamsen, HR 312 #415 Solgang

US SAILING
PHRF HADICAPS 2000

CLASS
Fleet, Sec/Mile Rating, Experience Code, Last Active Year, Number of Boats

RASMUS 35
Eastern Connecticut, 219, A, , 0
Northwest, 185, , 96, 0

(I'd use the Eastern Connecticut rating - see below)

Part of the difficulty in finding the rating is that, first, no one seems to race a Rasmus (and there are reasons!). Second, it is listed under "Rasmus" and not Hallberg-Rassy. This has led to a great deal of confusion. In fact, I tend not to believe the NORTHWEST rating above, because that number falls just inside the category for the HR 352 which ranges from 179 to 186
and is a much faster boat.

braden toan, Rasmus

Fixing rails for windscreen:

I�ve changed and repaired 1000 things on "the Whale", among these being the fixing rails.

The rails are delivered without holes and uncut. You must dismount the original by removing all screws and (2 people) flip the whole windscreen to the deck. The rails can be sliced carefully off by bending the upper rails a bit.

Cut the new rails (2 difficult angles at the same time) with a saw, and drill the holes exactly in the same spots. Paint the cuts and the holes with some grey paint. Fit rubber rails and cut the angles on them with a knife.

Mount the rails on the windscreen and assemble with a lot of SICAFLEX or similar adhesive. Use new panhead non-rust screws. Use silicone spray to protect the rails when washing the boat. I,ve got a picture somewhere of the boat during the operation. Cutting is especially difficult !

Dont fix the gelcoat, give it some wax.

It is only for the "N.C. Bjerg" windscreen the rails are mounted as described.

To mount the rails, use a hammer! (and a brigg of soft wood or hard rubber) Use some telfon spray to make the mounting a bit easier. Don't cut the siderail cockpit end before hammering it on !

- S.Dolberg, HR352 - 337, Blue Whale

I am currently dry-docked in my yard and have just removed the engine. I am in need of rebuilding my transmission.

I have a RB manual transmission part #817567. It is on my MD21A Volvo Penta (Rasmus 35). The transmission shaft broke shaft #807292 and coupling #802723.

I was told this morning that they do not have these parts available and that I would need to probably find someone with this transmission or parts on my own. Does anyone know where I can get a transmission or replacement parts? Help would be appreciated!

Corroded windscreen fixing rails

The windscreen fixing rails on my 9 year old HR352 have corroded very badly and need replacing. I've seen the same heavy corrosion on other HR boats, so I imagine it's a fairly common problem - which is perhaps why HR Parts & Accessories sell new fixing rails! Has anyone replaced the rails themselves? What sort of a job is it? Do the rails clip on to the bottom of the windscreen sections, or slide on? In particular, the side sections of the screen are slightly curved - does this make fitting the rails more difficult?

Additionally, my boat has tiny cracks in the fibreglass around the fixing rails, originating from the screwholes where the rails are fixed. Is this a common problem? Should I attempt to repair the cracks with gelcoat? Any thoughts?

Peter Brown
HR352 (sail number 761)

Anyone who has had experience or experiences with original equipment stuffing box failure please speak up. my predicament, prior to haul, no problemo, normal 3 or 4 drops per minute,after 2.5 monthes on the hard, boat launched, steady stream, unacceptable. now considering dripless remodel. however, thought in the back of my mind, does the composition of the original gland, especially the surface at the shaft, have some magical properties such as expanding with a wet environment, that would clear up the immediate problem at launching after a protracted period of dry time. would like to hear from somebody this weekend.

My 352 started dripping quite badly from the shaft seal. The boat's 9 years old, and the shaft seal was the original-fit black rubber Volvo type. This relies simply on a couple of moulded sealing lips, which bear directly on the prop shaft. Exposure to water won't make any difference to its ability to seal. After finding out how much a replacement Volvo seal would be, I decided to replace it with a dripless seal. I chose the HMI Propeller Shaft Seal, made by Halyard Marine (www.halyard.co.uk), which is exceptionally well-engineered. It was easy to fit, and is totally watertight. This unit uses two lipseals running in an oil bath, bearing on a highly polished stainless steel sleeve which slides on to the prop shaft, sealed by inner O-rings. There's a cutaway drawing on the website.

The only criticism I have is that I think there's a little more vibration now. The old Volvo seal is a fairly rugged piece of rubber, and I think it offers some degree of lateral support to the propshaft, whereas the HMI seal just floats on a rubber bellows.

Peter Brown
HR352 (sail number 761)

I'm looking for some parts for my md21a volvo engine. I need a freeze plug(located in back of the engine under bell housing) and volvo no longer has any. I've heard that peuget really makes the engine. Does anyone know what model number the peuget engine is? maybe I can order directly from them. This is some what of an emergency because we are located in the caribean and must be able to move to a protected area if a hurricane comes. Thanks for any help you may be able to offer.

We have a rasmus 35 built 1972, have really enjoyed the boat and will probably keep it for a while. Has anybody put a new engine in a rasmus. I'd love to hear what kind, problem you had, cost etc.

Thanks Allan (presently in St. Thomas usvi)

What diameter is the hole for the plug? I can look for one that might work here in ft. lauderdale. I replaced my md 21 A
with a perkins m-35 it pushes the boat at 7 mph fairly easy but againstany head wind 5 is all it will do. It's definitely not the engine if you regularly sail in high current areas.

I was looking for a freeze plug for alan and one shop suggested he take the old plug and marine tex the hole in it if he couldn't find one.

Scott Grinner

Hi, I am looking for a dog house roof to my Rasmus 432. If any one knows where I can get hold of one, please e-mail to telhage.goran@telia.com

Best regards,
Goran Telhage/Sweden

Attention Rasmus owners. I have made an experiment with my starboard mainsheet anchor, to solve the problem of chafe against the starboard handrail on the aft cabin roof. It seems to have worked.

I started with a Long "D" stainless (wichard) shackle (at least 3 inches, but the longer the better). I took it to a local metalworker and had him bend the shackle over, midway down, the "D" to an angle of between 45 and 90 degrees. (To picture how this would look, hold up two fingers, like a Peace or Victory sign, then hook the two fingers over a the knuckles.)

The result is that the shackle arches over the handrail when the boom is way out to the port side.

- The procedure should be done cold, no heating up with a blowtorch, which weakens stainless steel.

- The bending tool used made a sharp, clearly defined, angle at the bend, but it would work even better if the bend could be curved instead. The metalworker filed a tiny notch on the inside of the bend to encourage the shackle to fold at that exact point.

- The bend should be done WITH the pin in place, to keep the pin shaft in line. Even so, there was some slight shifting of the shaft, which adds some resistance to the screw-in pin - enough that it would not quite turn easily by hand.

Some questions for other Rasmus owners:

1) Has anyone ever retrofitted a "Strong Track" or similar system to a Rasmus Selden mast? My boat was originally equipped with a "crank the boom and roll the mainsail around it" type roller furling. Were all the Rasmuses? Do people still use them? Do they work? I changed to a slab reefing system with a retrofit "cassete" from the Selden factory in Sweden. However my new full batten main doesn't like to go up or down unless I'm dead into the wind. I was hoping something like the Strong Track & Slide System would help - does anyone have any experience?

2) Has anyone found a source for replacement parts and extrusions for the windshields. I need a new center (openable) panel.

3) Has anybody added an inner forestay? I'd like to correspond about details of that project.

We replaced our gooseneck with a custom made fitting. Try as I might I could not get any information concerning the retrofit cassette. I used the rolling reef system but it was difficult and tempermental even though I rebuilt it; so I was glad to get rid of it.

Concerning the Strong Track system; we installed it last year after looking at many other systems. It works great. The sail comes right down and goes right up without difficulty. The track goes in very easily with fasteners only on the bottom portion. These fasteners are a little quirky to place but it is completely doable by yourself. My only caution is to be very careful in measuring the track. I re-read the instructions many times and measured and re-measured quite a few times and still sweated it out til I got it on the boat and saw I had measured it right. I put it on while the mast was down. I think this made it much easier but I see no reason not to do it with the mast up.

Something to check when the boat is hauled out next time, on all boats designed by Ollie Enderlein. The rudder pins. A few years ago I broke a rudder post, when fixing it we found both pins badly corroded from electrolyze which is why the rudder post broke in the first place. They are very easy to check with the boat out of the water.

Reply posted 02/09/99 - excerpted from the Hallberg-Rassy Newsletter, Issue 4, July 1998; with permission from Hallberg-Rassy

On the older HR boats designed by Olle Enderlein: HR 26, 29, Monsun 31, 312, Rasmus 35, 352, 38, 382, 41, 42, and 49, the lower rudder bearing has a tap. Noise and movement in the rudder may be caused by wear of this tap. This has no importance regarding the strength of the rudder system.

The tap has to be changed when the boat is ashore. Start by placing a chock or support under the rudder blade. Loosen the bolt of the upper rudder fitting (see sketch above). Please note that the lower part of the rudder shaft ends with the nut at the upper fitting. This nut is many times covered with putty, which has to be hacked away. When the bolt is removed the rudder shaft can be taken off upwards. Now the upper bearing is free. The lower bearing can be removed by taking the screws away, or on older models to cut the rivets, from the rudder blade. The screws or the rivets are covered with putty. Now you can remove the rudder blade by taking it aft. The lower rudder bearing can be taken apart and the tap is within reach. Measure the hole carefully. Go to a mechanical workshop and order a new tap. The size of the tap will be unique for each boat depending on how big the wear has been. The material of the tap should be propeller shaft steel or Essmatur A, a material which can be described as brass, resistant to salt water. Normally the job is finished with this and you mount the rudder system together again according to the description above, but the other way around. Put new putty over the rudder fittings. If the wear is extensive, the hole in the lower fitting might be oval. This means that the part of the lower bearing, which is fastened on the skeg, also has to be removed so that the fitting can be taken to a mechanical workshop for drilling a cylindrical hole. In this case you have to place a tube to become the lower fitting in the correct position when you reinstall it. The fitting shall be covered in putty, for example Plastic Padding glassfibre putty. You can use the old screws. It is only a question of time befoe the putty over the rudder fittings shrinks a little. This will look like a crack but it is not. The shrinking of the putty is only to be regarded as cosmetic and has no impact on the strength.

Note- the boats Hallberg-Rassy is building today, designed by German Frers, have another rudder design and the above does not happen.

Rasmus Folks:

I've been eager to get a forum going on several points of improvements and upgrades. Please jump in on any of these:

-- Has anyone ever found an opening CURVED port for the back portlight of the aft cabin? I want to avoid building out the hole to take a flat opening port.

-- Do any of you use a spinnaker or a gennaker, with what results?

-- If so to the above, do you have a third halyard, and did you add a conventional rope winch to the mast in addition to the two wire spool-type winches.

-- Has anyone added diesel-fired forced air heat, such as Webasto, Espar, or Wallas?

-- Has anyone changed to a folding prop?

-- Has anyone rigged a babystay for staysail?

>> And here's a tip I'm working on to solve that problem of the starboard mainsheet block rubbing the handrail.

I've bought a "long-D" stainless shackle, which I'm going to take to a metal worker to have him heat it and fold it over on a 45-degree angle. This way on, a starboard broad reach or wider, the shackle would "arch" up over the handrail.

I don't know what success to expect with this experiment, but I'll let you know how it works next season.

- Braden Toan, Rasmus 35

Reply posted 1/4/99 - I took out some of the wood on the inside to accommodate a flat opening port. and to deal with the mainsheet problem I added a mainsheet traveler it has a slight led aft but not a problem.

I have a problem and I'll bet I'm not alone. Since most of us in your registry are owners of older boats with teak decks I'm sure we can all relate to this problem. As great as they look and feel underfoot when the going gets rough, wet
and windy, teak decks age and need replacement. My decks were a problem when I bought Merry Dance 10 years ago and after "dealing" with this problem year after year its now time to replace the teak. New teak would be nice but realistically its financially out of my reach. Since the mahogany cabin sides are already painted out, I'm not very happy about having to further diminish the classic look of the boat by having a painted fiberglass deck. So what am I looking for here? Since I'm having a problem settling on a viable solution I'm throwing the topic out for discussion in the hope I get some feed back from other owners who are also looking for a solution, or have found one. - Roger Allen, Mistral 33

Reply posted 12/10/98 - When we purchased our Mistral, the teak decks had already been removed. :-(. But, the boat is still beautiful, at least to us, and we have NO deck leaks. Removal of the decks required a bit of work, including replacing the mahogany molding around the doghouse with wider pieces. I've thought about having the teak reinstalled at a local yard that does beautiful, but expensive work. I understand that the teak is no longer screwed to the deck, which can cause leaks, but is glued in place. But, since my wife informs me that we, too, have no more boat money, this will have to wait. - Dave Gibson, Mistral 33

Reply posted 01/03/99 - Frank Washburn and I have a friend with an enormous classic boat, STRATEGO, who recently repainted his decks. I haven't seen these decks in almost a year, so I'm trying to remember everything (I could use some help here, Frank), but he had them painted in a creamy, sort of sandy color, and the non-skid areas in a slightly darker color. I think that's right. Anyway, my point is they were beautiful, very classy, and I filed it away in my mind as testament to just how good a painted deck can be. And it felt great underfoot!

Of course, Rasmuses, Monsuns and HR 41's have fiberglass decks, or else I wouldn't have bought one. I keep hoping HR will wise up and at least offer their current models with an optional textured fiberglass deck. My understanding is that they'll sell you one without the teak, but there is no non-skid surfacing on the deck. It'd be like walking on a water slide.

I don't know why they choose to believe that people with money are necessarily impractical. Fiberglass decks have never stopped Hinckley from being a world class builder. - Braden Toan, Rasmus 35

Reply posted 01/14/99 - Further to my request for feed-back on teak decks, does anybody out there have information or thoughts on the strength and integrity of the deck lay-up after the teak has been removed? - Roger Allen, Mistral 33

Reply posted 01/14/99 - My teakless deck seems to be strong enough. No flexing or bounce that I could discern, nor any cracks or spiderwebbing. Aesthetically, I would like teak decks. But practically, the job done on my Mistral seems to have been well done, and it looks fine. If it ever stops snowing here in upstate NY, I'll take a few photos of the deck to show you what it looks like, with closeups of the new doghouse molding. - Dave Gibson, Mistral 33

Reply posted 01/15/99 - Dave: Would you or the previous owner of Hotspur know if any additional lay-up was necessary after the teak deck was removed, or were the screw holes just filled and painted over? - Roger Allen, Mistral 33

Reply posted 01/15/99 - Roger: I'm not positive, but it appears that the holes were filled and the deck painted. I say that because of the wider molding around the doghouse. I would guess that if fiberglass mat were put down in place of the teak, the thickness would be about the same and wider molding would not be necessary. Here are two bad photos of Hotspur's side deck, cropped and enlarged:

Reply posted 01/20/99 - STRATEGO did have his teak decks replaced with figerglass and painted in a cream color...so that they're easy on the eyes in bright sun. I also believe they put some 'grit' in the paint for good footing in wet weather.

This past year I replaced 90% of the rubber inbetween the teak planks......I'm hoping to get at least 2-3 more years out of my teak....then I'll probably replace with teak....one estimate I received was $25k......but I figure it's worth the $ to keep it original. And I have found nothing better than teak when the seas kick up and it gets rough going on the foredeck when changing sails...........I never lost footage (or has anyone else) on board. - Frank Washburn, HR 352

#1. My 1970 Mistral has a Perkins 4-108 diesel inboard. I wouldn't ask this if I didn't think it was important. Where the heck is the oil dipstick? Dave Gibson, Mistral 33 -

Reply posted 11/28/98 - I have same diesel and although I haven't messed about with the dipstick in the past several weeks, I sort of recall it is more on top, back to the right. I'll check again soon and let you know. My big problem for a while was finding the fuel vent! Betsy Riggs, Mistral 33

Reply posted 03/30/98 - This is embarassing. Last Sunday my wife Jahnn and I went up to the boat to look it over for the Spring season. Jahnn was straightening up things as I removed the drawers and steps from in front of the engine. I looked all over for ten or fifteen minutes, but couldn't find it. Jahnn came over and asked how I was doing, and I replied that, as near as I could tell, there wasn't one. She asked what it looked like, and I described it to her. She then pointed right to it, right where Betsy said it would be, and asked "Isn't this it?".

I also can't find anything in our "junk drawer", my sock drawer, in the garage, or in the attic either. -Dave Gibson, Mistral 33